MFS, Multi-Routing Template System, Page Six.

To make the male inlay piece I've installed the 20 mm ring, leaving the 10 mm bit in. To cut out the inlay the router's depth is set to cut all the way through the 5 mm stock. In this model the red arrow indicates the router's path, only traveling around the template's perimeter.

Here is the piece cut free. Unlike the female piece the male has square corners.

Now, with the male inlay cut free, carefully remove it from the two sided tape and try the fit. If all goes according to plan you should have a perfect fit, or, one that will require very little trimming to make fit correctly. If the male piece is too small, trash it, adjust the MFS and make another one, if you have enough stock. It will only take a few minuets, remember, a prefect inlay adds to the value of your project and a sloppy fit takes away from it.

I should mention in my example of the ring/bit combinations shown earlier that Festool doesn't offer a 20 mm copying ring. I used that ring/bit combo because it is easy to understand the relationships between the offsets. How about if I show you examples with rings and bits Festool does offer, as well as some Imperial combos.

The first bit/ring combination, on the left in the drawing, is the 10 mm bit and 40 mm ring used to rout the female recess, then the 6 mm bit and 24 mm ring to cut the male piece. The second set on the right, to rout the female portion, the 10 mm bit with the 40 mm ring then, the 3 mm bit and 27 mm ring for the male cut out.

For a couple of Imperial combos, set one: 1/2" bit / 1" bushing (female) and 1/8" bit / 3/8" bushing (male). Seconed set: 1/2" bit / 1 1/4" bushing (female) and 1/4" bit / 1/2" bushing (male). The examples given are only a few of the possible bit/ring combinations commonly available.

I want to fit a router into this piece of MDF to act as a make shift router table I can set between two saw horses on the job site. This is the plate I'll be recessing into the MDF. Fitting the plate is a two step process, making a cutout for the router to pass through and a recessed lip or rebate for the plate to sit on. First thing is to measure the plate and the radius on it's corners to set the MFS and to choose the right diameter bit to match corners.

I decided to make the cut out first, in the router a 1/4" spiral bit with a 1 1/2" bushing.

The bit is set to cut all of the way through the MDF, so I placed a scrap under the work piece to protect my MFT's top. I'll guide the router slowly around the template.

I've switched to my OF1400 to make the lip for the plate. I've already put a 18 mm bit and a 30 mm copying ring in the router, I set the MFS for the 7 mm offset. The 18 mm bit should fit the radius on the corners of the plate perfectly.

This picture shows the lip routed in, now, I'll test fit the plate.

Looks like I've got the fit right on the first try. There isn't much of a learning curve to setting up the MFS. It didn't take me long before I got perfect results, the first time every time.

The process from start to finish, was only about 15 minuets, and that was while shooting the pictures too.

Page Seven.