The Festool MFS, Multi-Routing Template, Page Three.

The angle stops have V nuts that slide into the V slots to mount the stops to the profiles. The stops can be mounted square or on an angle.

Connecting the profiles can be tricky in the beginning as I've already mentioned, sometimes you wish you had another set of hands to line up all of the hardware. The key is to be patient when connecting and adjusting the MFS profiles. Taking the time to perfectly set the template will show in the end results you achieve with this system.

Moving on to using the MFS system, it's hard to know what to cover first. I think most people imagine the MFS being used as a routing template, so why not start there.

Template Routing with the MFS System.

Routing inlays, borders, cutouts, mortises, circles, curves and arcs can be very accurately done with the MFS. I know my results are much better now that I'm using the MFS instead of the wooden jigs and fixtures I've used in the past. Template routing with the MFS is a fairly straightforward concept. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when deciding how to use and set up this system as a routing template, I'll go over some of them in this section, as well as show you how I use the MFS for my routing projects.

If you happen to be unfamiliar with what template routing is, I'll explain. It is using a jig, fixture or in this case, the MFS profiles to guide a router's travel. The router must have a copying ring (guide bushing) or a bit with a bearing to prevent the bit from cutting into the template as it travels. When using a bit with a bearing, like a flush cut or pattern bit, the profiles can be set to the exact size needed, whether it is a cutout or mortise. This really simplifies the setup. However, using a pattern bit is not without it's risks. The issue is with the bit accidentally cutting into the template/profile. This can happen one of two ways. First, while plunging the bit into the work piece, before the bearing can engages the template (with the bearing still above the profile) it can't stop the bit from going astray and doing bad things to your profile. The second issue is, if the bearing happens to land in the V slot in the edge of the profile, you can run into this with smaller bit as they usually have small bearings that can fall into the slot.

The picture above shows the potential dangers of using a pattern bit with the MFS. I'm not suggesting pattern bits can't be used, but, care must be taken when selecting the right bit. Bearing size, cutting length and diameter should factored into the decision. When used in the right circumstances they can be a real asset.

I use the MFS most often to rout for hardware like lock sets, strikes, latches and catches, but, most of all hinges. I've made all kinds of jigs to rout hinges, all of them out of wood or MDF. While they do work, it is usually only a short time before they become inaccurate from relatively light use. If you have ever used a wooden jig you know what I mean. I've had to add very thin shims to my hinge templates to finish jobs, not wanting to make a new jig to rout one or two more hinges. That drove my nuts! Now, I use the MFS, it is so much faster, easier and far more accrete then the wooden jigs ever were. I can setup the MFS and make a test cut in about five minutes or less. If it needs to be adjusted, that can usually be done in less than one minute. If a wooden jig is off, you're stuck shimming or remaking the entire jig. So let me show you how I use the MFS with a small pattern bit to rout hinges.

The first step is to mark the setback for the hinge, I'll use this line to index the MFS.

With the small pattern bit I use to rout my hinges I can set the MFS to the exact length of the hinge. The width is set wide enough so I can test fit the hinge without removing the MFS.

Once the MFS is set to size, I place it on the pencil line then set the angle stops and clamp the work piece/MFS down.

Here is a close look at the bit I'll be using, it is the same type that I showed earlier, you can see I've add a second bearing to solve the problem of the bearing falling into the V slot. It is a 1/2" diameter, this will match the 1/4" radius on the hinges.

After installing the bit, the next step is to set the router's depth, plunge the router until it comes into contact with the work piece, this is zeroing the bit. Now, I use the hinge itself between one of the turret stops and the depth rod to set the exact depth.

It's time to rout, with the profiles set to be wider then the hinge this leaves an open space for me to fully plunge the bit before contacting the work piece. I make systematic passes removing small amounts pre pass. Again with the MFS wider than the hinge, I can test fit the hinge without removing the template. When I'm happy with the fit, I remove the MFS and test fit once more and make adjustments as needed.

I got a perfect fit on the first try, but remember to always make test cuts on scrap first.

Page Four.