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Interior door with loose tenon construction.
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For this project I'll be making an interior door without the large stationary power tools usually used in door construction. My OF1010 router, TS55, MFT, ETS150, MFS, a chop saw and 23 gauge pinner will be used to make this door. While I don't go into great detail describing the techniques used here, these pages can give you some ideas to use in your own shop. Loose tenons are going to be used instead of the traditional integral tenons or dowels to join the rails and stiles. The rails and stiles will be butted, not the cope and stick method, then a molding added around the two panels to match the other doors in the my house. Since this door will be painted, #1 common, 6/4" pine is what I'll be using. A simple door like this one could be relatively inexpensive to purchase, if you can find a door that matches closely enough. My doors have a fairly narrow mid-rail that is nearly impossible to find in a stock door, so that is why I'm making one (plus it's a lot more fun make it than buying one).
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As with most projects, I'll start with sizing the stock using the TS55 on the MFT. I like to use the flip stop to make sure the rails and are all the same size. The stiles are 80" long so the stop can't be used, just make sure you measure them carefully.
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With the two stiles and three rails cut to size, I then laid out where the mortises will be cut in the stock. To make the mortises I'm using the Festool OF-FH routing aid (part #492037) and a spiral up-cut bit. The routing aid really is the perfect tool for this job, however, with care you could use an edge guide as a substitute.
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With a rail clamped to the side of the MFT, I've made one of two the passes needed to make my mortise.
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The bottom rail, because of it's width, will have two tenons.
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I'll make the first pass on all of the rails, then readjust the OF-FH to make the second pass.
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A little work with a sharp chisel will clean up the edges of the mortises.
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Using the clamping elements to hold the stiles in place, I'll route the mortises in the edge of the rails next.
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Notice the pencil mark on the side of the rail, these marks are used as start/stop points for the mortises.
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Now, with the all of the mortises routed, the slot for the panels can be cut in the rails and stiles. I used the routing aid centered on the rail to cut the slot.
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I've made the tenons from 1/2" stock and cut them to 2 3/4"x5". Then its time to check to see if all of the work up till now is right, I'll dry fit all of the pieces.
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With the parts clamped together, I can check everything for fit.
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