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The Festool TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Saw: Tid Bits, page one.
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I'd like to talk about guide rail legnth. This question comes up on the net fairly often. I personal opt for joining rails instead of buying the longer rails. Here's why, I want to be able to transport the whole setup as easily as possiable. It would be too hard to get the long rails to the job everyday. So I use the Festool guide rail tote bag to carry my 55" rails.
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The Tote bag holds two 55" rails in the main pocket and a smaller rail in the outside pocket.
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I have one 42", three 55", and one 75" rail, not including the rail on my MFT. Having different size rails is nice. I prefer to use the shortest rail I can. So, how long does a rail need to be? The rail ideally should be able to overhang the work piece far enough to be able to start without a plunge cut. And long enough to finish the cut on the other end. One quick bit of info to past on, I use the 75" rail to crosscut 4' plywood, the 55" isn't quite long enough.
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With the rail placed here you must start with a plunge cut.
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In this picture the rail is set far enough back to start without a plunge cut, this makes a better cut and it's a little safer.
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If you must plunge the saw, remember to use the limit stop or a rail deflector (it acts like a limit stop also). The fear is while plunging the saw it will kickback and jump off the rail. This almost never happens (never happened to me personal), but be aware that it can. Plunge carefully, I sometimes use one hand to hold the base of the saw down on the rail to help prevent kickback.
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Joining rails takes two rail connectors, I use a 6' level to perfectly align the rails. See my 3D animation, Joining Rails, for more on how I join my rails. Of course there is a down side to joining rails. They must be handled carefully to keep them straight and should be checked often to ensure that they are still aligned. On the other hand if you rip a lot of sheet goods and you do most of your work in the shop, then the longer rails may be a better option.
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Clamps, to use them or not... Well, it depends. For the most part you can get by without clamping the rail down. However there are times when it is a good idea. I, hands down, use the quick clamps the most. Yes they cost more but are worth it.
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Quick clamp sliding into the guide rail.
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I spray all of my rails with a silicone free, dry lubricant, called TopCoat.
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I picked up the Guide Rail Accessory Kit. It comes with the angle unit, an extra rubber edge for the guide rail, two clamps (Type FSZ 120/2), one limit stop, two rail connectors and rail deflector in a Systainer #1.
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I use the angle unit when I'm crossing cutting plywood for a subfloor. All I have to do is make one pencil mark and the angle squares up the rail.
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